A few weeks ago, I was happily in the studio playing Mata Hari, when all of a sudden, the game made a weird blink and then went dead. The player 3 score unit had been acting up for a while, and only half of the general illumination (GI) lights were working. I had let those items go – figuring I’d get to it sooner or later. Now, it would be sooner…
As I’ve said earlier in this blog, Mata Hari has seen better days. One of the key culprits is its main wiring harness – it’s been hacked. Since Mata Hari is a solid state game, the wiring in the game ends in connectors which make-up a “plug-like” fixture. The wires have the female connectors, while the corresponding male plugs are on the circuit boards themselves. In the case of Mata Hari, someone in this game’s past must have had a problem with some of the plugs, and instead of repairing the connectors inside of the plugs, they cut the connectors off and soldered the wires directly onto the male plugs on the power supply board. Another plug was split in two, but still connected, and a third plug had been replaced by one that wasn’t the right size. The end result is, all of these things make it difficult for the game to do what it needs to do, and also makes repairing the game very difficult.
I don’t know all of the history of this game. It’s safe to assume from looking at it that it was used on location at one time or another. When most of these games were on location, operators would do whatever they needed to do to keep the games running. Later, older games would be scavenged for parts to keep newer games running. Some older games hit the dumpster with very few usable parts left on them. Mata Hari escaped that fate by being purchased from the operator by someone looking for a pinball machine. From there, who knows what happened to it, until it landed at my father-in-law’s house. He gave it to my wife and I a few years ago, and now it’s in need of some more help.
Finding replacement wiring harnesses for these games can be difficult. Bally did a great job of building around a standardized harness and circuit boards, so as long as you have similar vintage games, the parts are interchangable. I do not have a second Mata Hari, but I do have three copies of Bally’s Eight Ball.
One of my Eight Ball games is usable, but the other two are not. I resist the urge to canninalize games for parts, because once that begins on a game, restoring that “stripped” game becomes much harder and more time consuming. Typically, when I look into my collection to determine which game to do next, the games in the worst shape go to the end of the line – and I don’t want to add to my list of “parts games”…
On the other hand, I want to keep Mata Hari running. I’m hoping to open the studio soon for tournaments, and while some of my games are like Mata Hari – good playing games that have not yet been restored – if they all are playing well, they can be used in a tournament.
Quietly swearing that I will rebuild the harness from Mata Hari for the “donor game”, I carefully removed the wiring harness from one of the non-working Eight Ball heads. Then, I carefully removed the wiring harness from Mata Hari. The power supply board on Mata Hari was pretty messed up. I’d need to remove the board from the game to repair it, so to speed up the process, I again turned to Eight Ball and removed the power supply and transformer for Mata Hari. The final piece to the puzzle here will be one connector from a harness that goes down to the body of the game.
With all of the “borrowed” parts from Eight Ball now carefully installed in Mata Hari, the trick now is testing out the transformer and the rectifier board before applying power to the rest of the game. Circuit boards run on both low and high voltages. Accidentally applying too little voltage to a section of the circuit board means that the game won’t work. Too much voltage in the wrong part of the board can be catastrophic!
With all of the harnesses replaced/repaired, now it’s time to test my work! I removed all of the plugs from the Rectifier board except the one for the line voltage. I turned on the power and used my multimeter to scan for voltages at the five test points. After confirming that all of the correct voltages were present, I shut the game off and connected up the remaining two plugs to the Rectifier board. Once everything was seated properly, I turned on the power and watched the game light up. The MPU went through its self-test and then booted up. SUCCESS!!!
I played a few quick games to confirm that all of the features were working properly – which they were. The only issue I have now is the player three score display. It still seems to be having a problem – but the problem has changed! The display is no longer strobing (flickering periodically), it’s “ghosting” (displaying duplicate numbers in the next position to the left, but at 1/3 normal intensity).
Not having had the time to deal with that last night, my plan will be to swap the display for player 3 with another one on the game. If the problem stays with the display, then the display has a problem. If the problem stays with player 3 after the swap, then the problem could be either the wiring harness, or the MPU. I’ll let you know how that goes later…